Baking with a natural sour starter
Wednesday, October 19, 2011 at 12:06PM I have wonderful news: I have begun baking my own bread! It is such a satisfying (and tasty) journey to undertake. Bread singing from the oven making your house smell warm and yummy is a euphoric experience indeed. And I've not just begun baking any bread, bread from a sourdough starter. This is a traditional method of cultivating natural yeast and good bacteria by simply combining flour and water. By "feeding" this mixture everyday the yeast and bacteria thrive, creating a nuanced addition that will give your bread character and depth. The starter will also act as the leavening agent in your bread, thus not needing yeast (for some breads you can still add dry yeast, more on that later). Like a good wine that has been aged, starter will continue to develop and mature the longer it is kept alive. It also makes your bread have a lower glycemic effect on the body, making it a healthier option. Now, when I say "sourdough" I don't mean San Francisco sourdough, but a "sour" starter that gives artisan breads that wonderful tangy essence. Now, without getting into the scientific details too much here (check out this, this, and this for more details if you're so inclined), I'll give you the run-down of baking with starter and all the wonderful possibilities that lie ahead.
As there are many upon many resources for baking bread, I will merely outline the resources I've found useful and the "bear bones" minimum I've used to begin baking.
Specialty equipment needed:
A digital scale. This one, while inexpensive, works just fine as it can be in ounces, grams, or pounds and can measure down to 0.1g. And it comes in so many fun colors!
A container with lid to store your starter in. I use a Weck jar.
A plastic dough scraper such as this one.
A bench scraper. Makes clean-up much easier also.
Baker's stone. I have a round pizza stone that I've used, which has been ok. Just make sure you line it with parchment first. Also, if making unformed loaves, a Dutch oven works just as well.
A Lame (knife to score the bread with). Note: do not use a kitchen knife. You will end up dragging the dough and not cutting through properly.
Baker's Couche. The picture is pretty self-explanatory. Used for gently holding the shape of baguettes during a rise.
First, you need to make a starter, unless you have a friend and fellow baker that is willing to give you some, or a baker from whom you can purchase said starter. This takes about 4-5 days, depending on the time of year. It is getting to be the chiller part of fall here in Atlanta, which isn't the ideal time to start your starter, summer and late spring are the ideal, but it will work. It just might take an extra day or two. But be patient, the wild yeast in the flour will be growing. I followed this website* step-by-step and ended up with a wonderful bubbly starter within a week. I actually scratched my first attempt at this starter due to my starter not doubling after the Day 3 additions. After the second day, it bubbled up and more than doubled, but then seem to be "dead" after day three. Therefore, during the second go-around and same problem, I added the "shot" of rye flour and water he talks about and low and behold, I had a wonderful, bubbly starter within hours. Once you have your starter completed you will need to "feed" it to keep it alive and from going moldy. So that you don't end up with a monstrous yeasty thing eating you out of house and home you want to discard a portion of the starter before feeding it to keep it at a consistent and manageable volume. You can either use the discarded portion to bake with (see below about making a sponge), give it to another aspiring baker, or simply throw it out. To feed my starter, I reserve 25g starter (about 2 sloppy Tablespoons), 25g water (2 TB + 1 tsp.), and 25g flour (1/4 cup). *The aforementioned website is also a wonderful resource for anything bread-baking related, including discussions about the best equipment, etc.
A quick note about flour: King Arthur's All Purpose Flour is the best widely available flour to use for baking and your starter as it's made from wild wheat. Organic and unbleached is always preferable in any flour you choose, but make sure you are using flour made from ground wild wheat if living in the USA. If in France, the flour is perfect for baking, so go nuts.
Once you are the proud owner of a bubbly baby starter, you can begin baking. Keep in mind that your first few loaves will be less than wonderful, but they WILL improve. The starter takes about a month to fully develop. And your practice and techniques will take even longer. So, keep at it and the good news is: you can eat up your bread along the way! My first few loaves were very dense, but tasted wonderful.
The evening before I want to bake bread, I make my SPONGE. This is the portion removed from the starter before feeding to which you add, yup! You guessed it. Flour and water. I typically do all the starter minus 2 TB. plus 6 TB filtered water and 1/2 cup flour. Feed your starter as normal, unless you typically feed it in the morning, then just wait until morning, minus throwing out the excess as you've just done that the night before. Let them both sit at room temperature overnight.
In the morning, you can begin your dough following whatever formula you choose. Here are a few recipes for pan au levain: Chocolate and Zucchini, Sourdough Home, and The Fresh Loaf. This last recipe is given in volume, not in weight so if you don't have a scale you can use this. However, I highly recommend a scale for accuracy and trouble-shooting purposes. I have followed Chocolate and Zucchini's recipe with great success. It's actually a very easy process, and just takes time. She also includes great links to videos and other resources throughout this post.
Once you have become somewhat comfortable with your starter, venture out into other fun recipes, such as baguettes! Here is the post I used to bake my baguettes with great success. He details the process out simply and includes lots of videos like how to properly score and knead that are great for the home baker. At the beginning of the post are links to books as well.
If you so choose to venture into bread baking, and I hope you do, don't be intimidated by the process. There are tons of resources available and it is definitely a labor of love. Trial and error will be your mantra for a while. But like I mentioned earlier, you get to eat your "errors" along the way which will be delicious!
Here's a list of a few terms I didn't know before venturing into baking:
Crumb: the interior structure of the bread, the holes and their consistency
Shaggy: when referring to a dough and it's non-uniformity
De-gassing: working the air bubbles out of a dough
100% hydration: this refers to the starter. By adding equal parts water and flour to starter, you end up with a "100% hydration"
Happy baking, and pass the butter!
Devonly,
Yours.













